Restoration and Maintenance Garage Ideas

In August of 2003, I asked the 356 Talk e-mail group about ideas for what was important to have in a home (or shop) garage where the focus was on car restoration and on-going maintenance. I made a promise to report my findings to the group.

I'm late.

Better late than never however, so here I am. The ideas aren't listed in order of priority, but the ones that seemed most important are included. If you are building your own shop, or retrofitting an existing work space, I suggest you look over this list and consider each idea carefully.

• Make the ceiling tall enough for a full-rise lift, either 2 post or 4 post. There are many arguments in favor of both, but a 2 post lift will allow easy suspension maintenance...10 feet seems to be the minimum height, but carefully check on the lift you plan on using to make sure you build accordingly. Experienced pros also recommend at 10 feet of clearance in front and 6 feet of clearance behind the potential car in the work bay or lift.
• A good work bench is essential. Cost can range form practically nothing to thousands of dollars. The most important aspect of it is that it is sturdy and is able to support heavy loads and heavy work, such as pounding. A secondary concern is good storage and organization capacity, if you don't already have sufficient storage in your shop in terms of cabinets and chests. Either build a bench yourself out of sturdy wood, or buy one complete from Lista, Griots Garage, or numerous other sources if you have money to burn.
• You will need air tools. If you don't already have them, you will need them. Most common air tool suggestions include the impact gun, the cut-off tool, the angle-grinder, and the air ratchet. For restoration, I have found myself making extensive use of the punch/flange tool as well. Air tools are available from many different sources, with prices ranging from quite cheap ($30-50 a tool or even less) to expensive ($200 and up). It may be sacrilege, but I have had good luck with the cheap Chinese tools. Unlike hand tools, they seem to make the air tools pretty well, and at these prices, they are practically disposable.
• Plumb your air compressor along the walls with several air drops. Make sure that at each point in the wall where you have an air drop, you put a valve at the bottom to drain accumulated moisture. People have used PVC pipe to run their air lines, but it is not recommended as it can shatter under pressure. Recommended pipe tipes include standard black iron pipe, and copper pipe. If you have a separate shed or closet, put the compressor inside to control noise.
• 220 volt power in the garage is a must if you are going to run "bigger" tools, such as a large air compressor or welder. Make sure you have several 220 volt outlets installed if you are even considering touching the electrical system in your garage. In addition, install plenty of outlets in the garage, both along the walls and where you will locate your workbench. In this case, excess is a good thing. Use 20 amp circuits, not 15 amp, for your 115 volt plugs.
• A sink for clean up, of both yourself and parts, is a good idea. Get an oversized plastic laundry sink, or, if you can afford it, an enamel "janitor" sink. Both hot and cold water are preferred.
• A "ceiling divider" of either plastic or flame-retardent cloth on a track or roll-up systmem between your restoration work-bay and other cars is a very wise idea. It will control flying debris and dust from welding, grinding, painting, and other dirty operations. On the same note, grinding and milling operations are dirty. If you can keep these types of things separate from others via a closet or separate room, you will be even happier.
• A hoist of some sort is always useful. It can either be fixed (cheap, $75-300) or on a I-beam steel track (more expensive). Use it for lifting engines, transmissions, and other heavy parts for mounting on a roll-around stand, etc.
• Make sure you have enough shelving space on the walls. Take whatever space estimates you already have for holding oil, rattle cans of spray paint, large tools, and the like, and double it. Chances are, you will still be underestimating the space you will want or need eventually.
• If you have a tall garage, install a "soffet" around the perimeter as a shelf to hold things. This would otherwise be wasted space.
• Plan for evacuating moisture from the garage. Either a central drain location, if it is permissable by code, or a slight slope to the garage floor towards the door, so that if you wash or rinse the car inside, the moisture will be evacuated quickly.
• Insulate your garage if you can afford it. If you can spend a bit more, spend money on climate control (heat, air conditioning). A separate system from the rest of your house, of course. It will make working in your garage during the summer/winter months a pleasure rather than a pain.
• Install sufficient lighting. Too many garages get by on a couple of incandescent bulbs or a pair of flourescent strip lights. Use plenty of flourescent lights (at least 2 strip lights over each car bay where you plan on working), and if you want to spend a bit more, install metal halide lighting. Use spot lighting over your workbench. You need to be able to see everything in detail in that location.
• Seal the floor. On the cheaper end of the cost spectrum, epoxy paint jobs look good, are durable, and are easier to keep clean than plain cement. Much more expensive are tile floors that are specifically made for automotive use. Industrial tile (such as that used in schools, etc.) seems to be a good substitute if you are after the finished tile look but are on a budget.
• If you can swing it with the wife or other appropriate housemate, a bathroom is always nice. And a fridge to hold the beer. You need a reason to install the bathroom, after all. It's not just for washing your greasy hands!
• If you have expensive cars in your garage, or even just cars that are very important to you even if they are not worth much, make sure any access to the garage is secured. Use strong deadbolts on doors, and consider an alarm system.
• You need to have both smoke and carbon monoxide detectors. Working on cars is potentially dangerous. At least one fire extinguisher is also mandatory. If you start a fire accidentally, or somehow have a buildup of carbon monoxide from an engine, both your life and your house are in jeopardy. Don't cut corners on these basic safety devices.



• Personalize your garage! There are lots of vintage signs, posters, and other car or marque-specific memorabilia items available. Whatever you prefer, put it on the wall and make the garage yours. Make it a bit different.

Thanks for input from Dan Carter, Al Cole, Eric Chernoff, Doug Clauder, Will Smothers, Dan Metz, Steve Jensen, Ken Daugherty, Al Zim, Jack Allen, Brad Heavy, Ray Knight, and numerous others.

Posted by pbrown at March 5, 2004 12:29 AM